Thirty years ago I had the gas tank of my ’38 pickup coated inside to control rust. Since that time I would change the gas (usually three gallons) every eight weeks due to the gas eating away at the coating. Small bits of that coating would get into the fuel pump and carburetor wreaking havoc.
When I found out there was a reproduction 1937 tank available I figured I would see about fitting it into my ’38. Since ’37 and ’38 cabs are essentially the same I was sure it would fit.
The first step was easy. I got the tank and put it into my seat riser and it fit like the original tank. The next step was a lot more challenging. I took both tanks to a radiator and gas tank shop and discussed my plans with the most experienced worker in the shop. The plan was to cut off a piece of the raised part of the ’38 tank which had a curved pipe attached. That curved pipe was connected by a rubber fuel hose to the fill pipe that went through the cab wall.
A week later I picked up the tank to check and see if the temporary mockup of the adaptor would fit and be in line to connect to the fill pipe. Almost but not quite! I took it back for further discussion. Plans were made so the attachment would work. Another week went by until I picked up and installed the tank. I repainted the fill pipe and hooked it up to the tank with a new rubber connector hose and clamps. Some gas was added. Good News! It now appears and functions like it originally did back in 1938.
Best of all, you can also do this if you have a leaking or rust filled 1938 gas tank. Obtain a currently new 1937 tank. Attach your top corner to your new 1937 tank after a major cleaning. Of course, for most of us, we must find a very talented metal shop that does “one of a kind” projects.
Good News, Maybe:
If your 1938 needs a difficult to find original gas tank, you can always add a now available 1937 tank. Of course, you must have a split bottom seat for refueling. Used 1937 through mid-1938.
Data and article provided by Glen Andrews of Raleigh, North Carolina.